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The international festival Omnivore, which is attended by chefs creating a young, or creative, gastronomy, began in Moscow today, March 24, for the fourth time. The festival consists of several program parts: master classes, parties with food from all the chefs and dinners in restaurants (often several in different restaurants on the same day). All the days of the Moscow Omnivore Life around, represented by the editor of the Food, Anna Maslovskaya, will broadcast what is happening on its venues from morning until the last meal in the last restaurant. The material is constantly updated.
Tomorrow again, workshops in the "Gostiny Dvor" and dinners: two whole in the evening. Dmitry Zotov will cook with Giovanni Passerini(the Parisian bistro Rino, which the chef, by the way, closed completely one day before his arrival in Moscow) in Wing or Leg on Prospekt Mira. Andrei Ryvkin will take Chef Pierre-San Bouillier, also from Paris, in the kitchen of the United Kitchen.
Thanks everyone, see you tomorrow.
In addition to the dishes discussed below, there were three more in the set. Wheat and buckwheat bread with cottage cheese mousse. The dish from the permanent menu of the Central House of Writers, the very thing that Kiriyenko and Zimin prepared at the festival, is a duck with rhubarb and cherry. And the ending is dessert, one of the best I've ever come across. This is a caramelized Jerusalem artichoke with egg yolk. Bomb.
Another dish of Jose Ramirez from the Brooklyn restaurant Chez José in the Omnivore menu of the Central House of Artists is a whole baked cabbage with peas and beef tongue vinaigrette. Excellent set all, completely. No wonder they went.
The second dish from the Omnivore menu at the Central House of Artists is scallops with wild garlic and caviar sauce. Wonderful, delicate, delicious. This time, the authors Taras Kiriyenko and Alexei Zimin.
I deceived everyone there a little earlier. Brooklyn chef Jose Ramirez was about to cook a turnip salad today at dinner at the Central House of Artists. And here he is, the first course. Very tasty and bright. And these are just vegetables.
The session of master classes on the first day is over. At 19:30, dinner of Jose Ramirez, Alexei Zimin and Taras Kiriyenko in the Central House of Writers. On foot and not without adventure on the road we go there.
Daniel begins to cook goiter glands. Presenter Alexander Gavrilov complains about the ugly name of the product: "Well, what are these, goiter glands?" And here we are used to, we even already like it.
Daniel says that goiter is his favorite part of the carcass, while cutting celery root into cubes. Shallots are heated in olive oil. Next, the cook cooks celery in milk. A little onion is just for the smell. Sour cream and cream. Fippard admits that he is now preparing food, in his opinion, with a Russian flavor.
Show how the snow is preparing, does not come out: there is still no electricity. It seems to be the longest master class of today's festival, but actually not. The illusion is created because Daniel is preparing a rather complicated dish, telling about the smallest details. Almost no one described it in detail.
The last master class for today: chef of the Yornik restaurant Daniel Fippard. Daniel says that he was ready for the unexpected, so he will be able to show a master class and so on. You can no longer wait: Sirha will close, and we will all be asked from the audience. Outlets in the Omnivore audience still do not work.
Hooray, we have a break! There is nothing good for the next cook: they turned off the electricity. But then you can fully escape to the text.
“My ideology is a bit different from the idea of the festival: I believe that you can’t go completely into the look and forget about the taste,” the chef protests. Honestly, it seems that he simply does not know much about the festival he is performing at. No one at Omnivore has ever said that appearance is more important, but in my own experience I will say that the food of most Omnivore chefs is very, very tasty.
“It was difficult for me to find a common ground with my previous bosses, so when I needed to decide what to do next, I decided to open my own restaurant. There was only one option - do it yourself, take risks yourself. So far everything is going well. My partner is also a chef, we worked together for a long time, he turned out to be one of the few people with whom I find a common language. We try to cook understandable food, to do well, interestingly, but not to replay, "continues Dmitry Blinov.
It turns out Dmitry Blinov, the second chief from St. Petersburg. He says from Duo restaurant, and I literally heard about him the other day about good reviews. Two dishes will be cooked from the restaurant's menu: stew of duck confit with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil and scallops with buckwheat and smoked duck breast.
Igor’s dessert, once invented specifically for the Northern Cuisine festival. The St. Petersburg edition of Life around has already learned from the chef the subtleties of cooking, read "Recipes of chefs: Tiramisu from acorns."
Acorn flour sponge cake, homemade goat cheese, cream, ground acorns, cocoa.
The second dish of Igor Grishechkin from "CoCoCo" is "Tourist's Breakfast". The main ingredient here is barley. Already boiled pearl barley is put in a stewpan and slightly heated. Igor sprinkles garlic mashed potatoes with soil from Borodino bread, dried mushrooms, hazelnuts and ground coffee. There are dried stalks of parsley and dill in tempura and deep-fried rosemary. As a result, the cook puts the pearl barley in a tin can, he has tartar and a quail egg on top. On top is a pinch of Thursday salt (the one that tastes like centennial Chinese eggs).
Igor Grishechkin: "The restaurant that I represent works directly with farmers. We are looking for Russian cuisine. Today I will prepare three dishes from the menu of the KoKoKo restaurant."
The first is rolls and sashimi. Igor says that sprats and sprats are tastes familiar to us all from childhood. That is why the cook will use these ingredients in his rolls. It also includes cod liver and chum salmon caviar.
“Most often I come up with a story, and tastes are already imposed on it. I wanted to come up with a Russian dish that would beat the still popular Japanese motifs,” explains the chef. Instead of rice, he uses brown bread, instead of salmon, tuna, and so on - sprats, cod and sprats. On the whitewash, these are such small sandwiches, Russian tapas. The combinations are: bread, sprat mayonnaise, quail egg and sprats themselves; bread, farm oil, red caviar; bread, sour cream sauce (sour cream, grated horseradish, dill), jacket-boiled potatoes, dill gel and sprat; bread and herring tied with a strip of onions (as sushi are tied with a strip of nori); bread, sour cream and smoked mackerel.
Grishechkin starts cooking rolls with cod liver.
Igor Grishechkin’s turn to show what he is capable of. This is a chef from the St. Petersburg restaurant "CoCoCo", known for two things: the fact that the co-owner of the institution is Sergei Shnurov (the Leningrad group), and the fact that they cook it from LavkaLavka farm products.
The second dish of Anton Kovalkov, dessert. The cook admits that he does not like very sweet desserts. We support him in this.
Looking up from the current master class, I want to talk about one observation about the festival in principle. Between the workshops that began at eleven and ended around five, there are practically no breaks. About that, to go for a snack (to know something else) and at the same time not to miss the performance of any of the chefs, there can be no question. So we understand this: even the organizers themselves do not count on the fact that there are such crazy people. And we are, and we already really want to eat, a pie with chili con carne was not enough.
Let's go back to the dessert "Snacks from the forest." Green strawberries. She is not real, Anton prepared it from fresh tarragon and strawberry consom with protein. In a deep glass bowl, the cook places the pseudo-berry, regular (same) milk ice cream, a little dry yogurt, almond flour, coffee from dandelion roots (like coffee from chicory) - instead of dark chocolate, for example, it adds bitterness to the bitterness dessert. It was not possible to try, but at 22:13 Anton had very little desserts.
Anton Kovalkov: “There will be two dishes in total, the first in the form of a snack. Ground, moss, birch bark, hemp. We took all the quail pieces and made bakua from it (semi-dried, semi-dried meat, which was cooked for a long time on the grill, before marinating), this Asian dish, I brought it from Hong Kong. "
The base of the dish, which the cook prepares, looks like a thin meat waffle. Then beets marinated with rice vinegar (it gives sweetness), dried quail hearts (at first they are salted with salt with the addition of the same rice vinegar). Anton adds chervil, spelled popcorn, dehydrated beets (powder) to the dish.
Real soil and moss are heated in a pan - they are here in the role of decoration and to give a smell. From the peel of the parsnip, Kovalkov made glazed crispy chips that look like birch bark. Glazed in vinegar infused with hay.
By the way, the organizers of the Omnivore festival launched an Instagram photo contest with good prizes. To the photo taken at Omnivore's workshops, party or dinners, you must add the hashtag #omnivoremoscow and indicate that it was shot for @omnivore_moscow. Prizes - Dmitry Zotov’s master class in the wing or leg pub, two master classes by Timur Abuzyarov in the Rulet cafe, a private Michelin chef master class at the Ragout school and a whole day with Vladimir Mukhin in the kitchens of all his Moscow projects - will receive owners of photos with the most likes.
Starts Anton Kovalkov, ex-chef of the recently closed restaurant "Favorite Place 22:13". Anton made billets in the kitchen of the Door-19 restaurant pop-up: not at home, though. The first thing the cook is talking about is the responsible consumption of animals, their whole consumption. Actually, the same as in my sensational column, but the letters are much smaller. In general, many Omnivore chefs talk about this, it doesn’t matter whether it is meat or vegetables, to use all parts of the product to the maximum.
Zimin: "Rhubarb here turns into something between an apple, a pear and a cherry." The duck is sent to the oven (before that it was marinated for 12 hours in honey-mustard sauce).
The main thing in this dish, according to Alexei, is the taste of duck breast, which is "beautiful in itself," and the taste of fruit sauce. The finished baked duck is poured with fruit sauce, put rhubarb next to it, and sprinkled with pollen. Done. Zimin and Kiriyenko cut rhubarb and duck into small pieces, they try the first rows.
Zimin: "Russia was the largest exporter of rhubarb in the 19th century, by the way. Now we will prepare understandable dishes, each with several products. The dish is called" About the duck ", in it we want to emphasize the role of rhubarb."
Cook's duck sauce is made from rhubarb, cherry and a green apple. Apples are boiled with sugar, cinnamon and red wine. To give rhubarb a richer color, it is tinted with beetroot juice.
And now the chicken stock. Everything is so fast! It is understandable: the chefs made the preparations in advance, and we are shown the most important and difficult moments in the preparation.
Alexei Zimin and Taras Kiriyenko from the recently updated "Central House of Writers" come on the scene. They will talk about rhubarb and cook duck with rhubarb from the menu of the new restaurant. Just one dish.
Make a souffle from beets. “The most important thing is to make the taste saturated. We believe that vegetables are a great field for experimenting with tastes. We respect products and try to use them completely, without any residues,” says Pamela Young. A seasoning for beet souffle was chosen lavender. "Beetroot has an earthy taste, and the floweriness of lavender fits very well."
Start with turnip salad. Jose tells us that Ivan Shishkin (restaurant Delicatessen) gave him pickled turnips on Saturday and that he himself would have done the same. Jose, on a Japanese pasta machine, slices thin, long slices of turnip. Then you need to marinate the turnips in Japanese rice vinegar, this was done in advance. Mashed potatoes, sauce: turnips, sunflower seeds, sour cream and a little vinegar are made from the remains of turnip. José prepares sorrel foam from the remains of sorrel, whipping it with a blender in a champagne bucket.
Jose Ramirez's master class begins at the Brooklyn restaurant Chez José, known for cooking mainly vegetables. His sushi chef, by the way, according to Ivan Shishkin, used to work with Carlo Mirarki, the chef who performed at the very first Omnivore in Moscow. Her name is Pamela Young, and she is very beautiful.
Thick boiled bone sauce, pomegranate sauce, lamb shoulder, onion and lamb tendon popcorn. The second dish of Berezutsky.
The smell of guinea fowl smoked in the hay permeated the entire Omnivore audience. Sergey puts all the ingredients in a nest plate. Including creamy horseradish sauce.
The second master class.
The Berezutsky brothers will hold master classes together. Ivan will help Sergey today, and Sergey will help Ivan tomorrow. Guinea fowl will be cooked, that is, in fact, it was cooked in advance in a su-form for 12 hours. Wood sauce! Cream insisted on birch chips. Punch millet. Butterbur burdock from Sakhalin was salted, washed and cooked. The result should be a guinea fowl leg baked in its own nest with Sakhalin burdock.
Delicatessen's last dish is a crispy fried pastry with sweet chili con carne cream.
The chefs prepared many pies for tasting in advance, and right now they are making one completely, together with the batter. They batter batter into a siphon, add bourbon, beer, starch, a little honey there. Make foam. Dip the pie in batter and deep fryer.
The crow's feet are cooked in a spicy broth and then smoked on a sieve. Chicken skin is fried, chips from the skin and fat are obtained. This fat and isomalt are added to caramel. Caramel cools down, it is ground and sugar candy is made from powder on a special, almost toy, beautiful machine. And now that very cotton candy made of fried chicken skin on a smoked goose leg is ready.
Bubble-tee. Capsules are ready, but not only they will go to the drink. Another fillet of pickles and caps of pickled mushrooms. The guys brought with them a special machine for sewing bubble money. Vika makes small portions for someone to try. For example, we. Very tasty, you can feel both the pickle and the cucumbers, but gently, not too salty.
Vika makes capsules from brine, which will serve as a filling for bubble money. Maxim strain the serum and add horseradish to it. Infuses. The liquid is carbonated.
All three chefs prepare different dishes. Vika does the bubble. It smelled of food. Ivan Shishkin talks about each of his students that are now on stage. How they came to Delicatessen, about their motivation and success. In the photo, the ingredients for the "Hangover bubble": tomato, cabbage and cucumber.
Vika, Oleg and Maxim themselves figured out what and how they will cook today. True, Ivan himself talks about this into the microphone. As a result, a harmonious concept was built up, and the name “After the Ball” appeared on the menu. The hungover morning burgers and brine immediately come to mind. A hit of only 50%, in fact, this is the menu: "Hangover Bubble-T " just from three pickles;FRIENDLY CHICKEN SKIN SUGAR with smoked goose foot andCREAM PIE from sweetCHILE CON KARNE. I want to eat the last immediately, even if I just heard the name, but it’s more interesting how exactly the bubble will be prepared, from what else?
The first in a series of master classes at Moscow Omnivore is traditionallyIvan Shishkin, Chef at Delicatessen Restaurant, Natural Foods and Buterbro Street Food Wagon. This time it’s so, but not so. Today, Shishkin’s comrades-in-arms open the festival, I’d like to say “students”, but not all of them have the same title:VICTORIA BOYARSKAYA, MAXIM LETUNOVSKY andOLEG KUSOV. Victoria, by the way, assisted Ivan at performances for the past two years. Life around has photo evidence:
Moscow Omnivore 2012. Victoria Boyarskaya assists Ivan Shishkin at a master class. They prepare bird cherry gingerbread cakes and pemmican - a traditional North American Indian food, usually consisting of sun-dried buffalo meat, fat and sometimes berries.Moscow Omnivore 2012. Victoria Boyarskaya assists Ivan Shishkin at a master class.They prepare bird cherry gingerbread cakes and pemmican - a traditional North American Indian food, usually consisting of sun-dried buffalo meat, fat and sometimes berries.Moscow Omnivore 2012. Victoria Boyarskaya assists Ivan Shishkin at a master class. They prepare bird cherry gingerbread cakes and pemmican - a traditional North American Indian food, usually consisting of sun-dried buffalo meat, fat and sometimes berries.
Important news:CANCELED TODAY'S DINNER AT WHITE RABBIT GASTRO BAR.Chefs Vladimir Mukhin andDavie Scallemans from Anverpen, but our world is far from ideal, it has borders and visas. Davi could not reach Moscow on Saturday, as planned. Today, the cook will try to extend the visa at the Russian embassy of his city, and if he and all of us are lucky, he will be in Russia by night. Perhaps the date of the dinner will be postponed. While the Davi master class, which is due to take place at 14:20 on Tuesday, March 25, has not been canceled.
Speech by Davie Scallemans at the Omnivore 2013 in ParisSpeech by Davie Scallemans at the Omnivore 2013 in Paris